General Engine Settings and Popular Parts

     Propane Buffer Maintenance Instructions and Minimum Standards

Starting Instructions:  

The buffer is equipped with either a push-button start 110 volt AC or key start 12 volt DC battery.  If the buffer does not have a clutch to disengage the pad drive, push the handle down to raise the pad from the floor before starting.

• Check the oil level.

• Start with a clean pad.

• Turn LP tank valve on. (Sometimes the Quick Coupling does not screw in tight enough to push the plunger to release the gas from the tank).

• Either turn the key on or plug in the 110 volt starter cord into a 110 volt receptacle.

• Set the throttle cable to the choke position or pull choke cable out.

• Turn key to start position or push start button (crank no more than 10 seconds, per try).

• Move the throttle cable to the slow position when the engine starts.

• Unplug the starter cord, if applicable.

• Move the throttle control to the desired speed, put the pad driver on the floor and start buffing.

Stopping Instructions:

• Turn LP tank valve off.

• Allow the engine to run; until, it runs out of gas.

Daily Maintenance, before Operating Machine:

• Check oil level.

• Check the air filter and replace if necessary or clean.

• Check the cooling air filter (recoil filter). Clean if necessary.

• Check fuel and vacuum hoses for cracks, or sign of aging.

• Check belt tension and for loose bolts and nuts.

• Check the cooling fins on top of engine. Should be blown out with air hose on regular basics.

Daily Maintenance after Operating:

• Clean the bonnet (Recoil Filter) with water spray nozzle and hang to dry.

• Dust off machine.

• Tilt machine back or to the right side (opposite the carburetor) to clean or change pad.

First 2 months or 20 Hours Maintenance:

•  Change oil. Use regular SAE 30 motor oil.

•  Check dip stick making sure oil is at proper level. Some engines will hold a few ounces over a quart,
   to keep the buzzer from going off.

Periodic Maintenance:

• Every 3 months or 50 hours.

1. Change oil. Especially on Honda Engines. Honda uses a splash system for oil lubrication and when, the oil gets, as thick as, molasses it does not splash very well.

• Every 6 months or 100 hours.

   

  1. Clean and adjust the spark plug gap @020.

  2. Clean spark arrestor.

   

• Every year or 300 hours.

1. Replace the air filter and pre filters.

2. Replace spark plug.

3. Check and adjust valve clearance.

4. Check and adjust valve clearance.

5. Idle speed and/or any fuel adjustments, should be checked and set by Certified Emissions Specialties on a CO/HC Analyzer Machine.

Helpful Suggestions:

•  Foam pre filters and recoil filters may be washed in warm soapy water and hung up to dry over night.

• If you are using and older LPG Tank, without the New Safety Fill Feature and your Regulator or Lock Off freezes or starts dripping moister take, the machine and/or tank outside to a safe place and bleed the pressure off the tank. The tank is over filled and is causing the Regulator or Lock Off to freeze and shut you gas supply off.

• Empty LP Tanks should be bleed often, to empty the air that, accumulates in the tank, that reduces the amount of gas that, the tank can hold. You could have 3/4 tank of air pressure and 1/4 tank of LPG and your gauge would still show full and you still get charged for a full tank of gas; unless the 80% method is used. The 80% method is the bleeder valve is turned on and the incoming gas into the tank continues; until gas starts coming out from the bleeder valve at this time, turn the bleeder valve off and the incoming gas into the tank is turned off.

• Valve settings for Kawasaki FH381V, FH500V and FH541V Propane Engines:

1. To Reach Top Dead Center, Kawasaki Engines, Pull both plugs out. Take both valve covers off.  #1 Cylinder on left side standing in front of engine.

2. Rotate engine by turning belt or using pull cord, slowly; until intake (top valve goes in  and out. Comes out and stops. Look in spark plug hole for piston to come to top. When piston is at top you are at dead center.

3. Adjust both valves to .006 on #l head. Same process on other side, but rotate one full turn and you should be at Top Dead Center on #2 Head.

The above procedures, may be a pain in the A** for some people, but in the log run, the procedures, will extent the life of your engine and help ensure that, the engine stays with in the Mandated Emissions Range.  

Honda does nothing fancy concerning emissions, but does manage to stay ahead of the curve on Mandated Emissions Ranges, as they change.